Since we are in the heart of one of oldest streets in Old Lyon - rue Juiverie- the main thing to do is just stroll with the crowds of tourists. Peer up the traboules, and scrutinise the doorways, most with dates in our street except our late 17or early 18th century abode. The first photo is the date for next door.
The cathedral of St Jean has a 15th century clock, but alas its works are at the watchmakers, and it has been barred to stop viewers examining its remains closely. There is also a reformed église at which a seminar was in course when we peeked in on Saturday afternoon.
On Saturday night we ate at Aux 3 Maries, recommended by friends. The ambience is neat and the food hearty. Wendy's entrée was salad with lardons, followed by a fish quenelle (dumpling) . I had a liver concoction and large lamb shank. My dessert was a Norwegian Alaska (c'est magnifique, mais ce n'est pas le lyonnais....).
On Sunday we took the funicular to the Fouvière, dominated by what Wikipedia describes as "minor basilica", built on the site of a forum of Trajan to defy the prevailing socialist outlook in the latter decades of the 19th century, whose exterior has the appearance of an enormous ice-cream cake, now balanced in the view by a mobile telephone tower. Thus passes glory. The basilica interior is remarkable for being covered, on all surfaces that are not windows, in opulent mosaics representing stories that were not recognisable to us. Research suggests one, not the one I photographed, is a representation of the Council of Ephesus (431). That was when Nestorius was kicked out, and basically lost Persian Christendom. Not all that much to celebrate in that one. As for the rest, nobody except me seems to be curious.
The basilica was however packed for a mass when we arrived.
We then viewed the Gallo- roman ruins. Not much to see on the surface these days.
The theatre was built by the orders of Augustus between 17-15 BC in what was the capital of Gaul, called Lugdunum. The ruins were largely hidden until 1980. The ruins comprise three separate structures: the theatre, the odeon, and the temple. The theatre has steep seating, a decorated floor, and a stage. It could originally seat 4500, or depending on claims, more than 10,000. The Odeon is a smaller theatre that was used for musical shows and poetry competitions. The temple was dedicated to the goddess Cybele is 160 AD, and only its foundations survive.
Tuesday, 15 October 2013
Around Lyon
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Latest research: my mosaic photo is of the battle of Lepanto (1571). See http://bedsihavesleptin.com/tag/fourviere-basilica/
ReplyDeleteGood to see that the Battle of Lepanto features in the basilica.
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