Another use for a railway line

A Sunday treat was the purchase of no1 (grade) oysters from a stall in Rue de Bretagne outside the local supermarket. Some people were scoffing them at stall, but we took ours home for dinner. There is no dignified way to pour an oyster into your mouth in the street.
Our Sunday excursion was to walk along La Promenade Plantée for some distance. This walk extends from Bastille to Bois de Vincennes. We have been to the Bois on previous trip and it seemed a long way on the Metro and an appreciable walk after that. We were surprised that this walk was said to be less than 5 km.
The walk is the track of a former elevated railway line and for all the way we followed it was a considerable height above street level. The path is concreted, and on this Sunday was crowded with joggers -surely not the best surface for pounding feet. In autumn, with flowering mostly finished, it may not be the best time to appreciate it. We terminated our walk after about 2 km, as we had already walked from our apartment to its start (a little over 4 km) and while pretty there was some sameness about the aspect.

Afterwards we took the Metro from Gare de Lyon (an intimidating station even on Sunday) to Republique, with the aim of walking to Le Jardin de l'Hopital Saint Louis, but we found this somewhat further north west than anticipated and when near the hospital boundary wall we turned for the walk home without savouring whatever delights may lie within. Our return walk took us down the Quai de Valmy on Canal saint Martin, which on the map seems to join the Seine in the north near Saint Denis.

A Night at the Opera

Last time we were in Paris we went to the Opera Garnier with seats bought on the Internet which proved to be on level four opposite the chandelier and with very little room to manoeuvre one's body and very uncomfortable. This time we were not going to be caught sitting up there. After much research Tony found a bourse for opera tickets - that is an exchange where people can sell their tickets in the event of inability to attend. So we bought two tickets this way. They were not together but one row apart and both proved to be aisle seats diagonally behind each other in the Orchestre - the best seats in the house, four rows from the front! The seats were in the style of one of the Louis, very ornate, covered in red velvet and diamond buttoning in the back. They were somewhat but not hugely more comfortable than those at level four. At least there was plenty of wriggle room.
The opera was Alceste by Gluck, sing in French with French surtitles. It was a three act opera in which the king Admète was terminally ill and the gods would only allow him to live if someone else took his place. Of course, Alceste his beloved wife, who could not live without him agreed to die in his place. Hercules hearing of this and being horrified of the fate that had befallen his friends interceded with the gods, and because of their love for him they restored Alceste and she and Admète lived happily ever after.
The soprano (Alceste) was superb as was the tenor Admète. There was huge emotion in their words and actions which of course we could see because we were so close to the stage. The principal singer Sophie Koch was a no show but her understudy, whose name was not written anywhere, was superb.
It was a first night but we saw no signs of black ties and only one or two evening dresses. The atmosphere in the Garnier was fabulous but, as it was built in the 17th century, there is no air conditioning so it was hot. Also they have dicky seats to fill the aisles which makes for close encounters not to mention danger in case of fire. We both enjoyed the event greatly.

Return to Paris

We departed Le Gué Rochoux early (7.00am is pre- dawn) in order to be sure of refuelling and dropping off the car by 9.00am to avoid an extra day's rental.
The trip to Granville was made in good time, so we decided to spend our "savings" on the car rent, and a bit more, on the early train- the tickets we bought in Australia were a special price and not exchangeable. In effect we bought three hours, and it was very good value indeed, since we settled into our Paris apartment at 1.00pm instead of 4.00pm and had ample time to do the initial food shopping and explore the street environs.
As it was Shabbat we encountered several groups of chaps in black frock coats and and black Homburg hats.
Our apartment is within a stone's throw of the lively Marché des Enfants Rouges- Paris ' oldest covered market, well stocked particularly with all kinds of vegetables, deli, cheese, seafood, and fronted by a classy boucherie. We are in a very lively area of the Marais - dozens of places to eat, chic clothes shops, a handy small supermarket, excellent patisseries, and a choice of several Metro stations.
We chose a couple of different quiche slices from an irresistible patisserie for our light tea before the Grand Spectacle de l'Opéra which Wendy will relate in our next post.

The apartment has been thoroughly modernised in Ikea style and with the living area open-plan feels spacious.
You can view the owner's promo here:
http://www.homelidays.co.uk/paris-03/apartment-flat-355110en1.htm

Last day in Basse Normandie

We had ambitions to see Honfleur's harbour and its Musées Eric Satie and Boudin, and at least view the Pont de Normandie across the mouth of the Seine, but as the day came it was apparent that two and a half hour's driving each way made these aims a bridge too far.
After coffee with buyers of a ram from the farm we went instead to neighbouring Domfront to stroll through the medieval streets (noting one half - timbered house dated 1515) and the ruins of the easternmost castle of Henry II of England and Eleanor. (Actually it was built by one of William thre conqueror's sons).Eleanor's daughter Eleanor (later queen of Spain) was baptised there in 1161, so we could give their name the French spelling on site: Alienor. The castle was also the site of the final attempt to reconcile Henry and Archbishop Thomas a'Becket in 1169.
The church is of interest in that being just reopened on 1 September 2013 after a closure of seven years its form is neo Byzantine and its material concrete, chosen for cheapness and lightness. The image of Christ Pantocreator is particularly striking in recalling the art of the Eastern church, and summoning natural light from the dome.
We travelled a further 20 km to Bagnoles de l'Orne, an obvious ritzy spa town with plenty of places for the wealthy to be frivolous, but having come, we saw, and did not need to conquer so moved back to Mortain to enjoy a late "sandwich".
In the evening we shared a barbecue with our always obliging hosts who have in every way gone the second mile to assure the pleasure of our stay .

Auberge de la Source at Saint- Cyr-du-Bailleul

For a fine food meal we were recommended to this restaurant in a neighbouring village. Its reviews in trip advisor were uniformly high, and their number high for such a small village in the forest: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g1896071-d1896067-Reviews-Auberge_de_la_Source-Saint_Cyr_du_Bailleul_Manche_Basse_Normandie_Normandy.html
We arrived punctually at dusk (19.30) on Thursday evening and while the kitchen door on the road was open and work could be seen in progress, the restaurant doors were still closed- but were opened for us in seconds; we thought that we might be the only diners but were soon joined by another couple. On this evening only formula menus were offered, and we chose the three course €32 menu being one down from the chef's degustation menu that we felt would be too much food for us. Included but not mentioned in the menu were two courses of amuses bouche. The first was 3 bites of savoury delights including a cherry tomato in salted toffee: we'll certainly surprise some future dinner guests of our own with this simple idea. The second was a sorbet of tomato topped with cucumber mousse.
For entrée I had 3 types of foie gras, and Wendy some salmon with cauliflower purée. We both had a main course of veal; the menu was in French and our waitress did not speak English, so although one alternative was "biche" we thought this might be a cut of steak and passed over it. Only on coming home did we discover that the translation is "doe". Obvious really. The desserts were fruit based (in my case pineapple and passion fruit, for Wendy apple clafoutis rhubarb sorbet. For aperitif a kir normand (crème de cassis and dry cider wonderfully perfumed) and with the meal a half bottle of Saint Estèphe La Rose Brana in place of a bigger name but no longer available Saint Émilion: the wine was fine!
The meal was accompanied by piano music throughout, swinging through musicals, Scott Joplin and pop classics.
Overall experience is about 16/20.

Bayeux and Falaise

On Wednesday we set out early for our journey to Bayeux, being warned that arrival after the coaches would result in long queues. We arrived at 9.30am to find the tapestry car park already full, so we drove out onto the approach road where we had seen marked spaces: second touring error! The spaces were marked in blue, and on our return a bluey was awaiting us- these spaces require a parking disc showing the time to be displayed on the dashboard, as we subsequently learned. The fine is €17, bearable but paying is complex- involving either a cheque or contravention stamps to be posted- once again our hosts are assisting.
The set-up to view the tapestry is excellent with a full English commentary, and copious explanations of theories of provenance, stitches methodology, demonstrations of the reverse side, and general history of what the tapestry, actually an embroidery, illustrates.

The cathedral is a magnificent edifice from the outside. The background info says "The site is an ancient one and was once occupied by Roman sanctuaries. The present cathedral was consecrated on 14 July 1077 in the presence of William, Duke of Normandy and King of England. It was here that William forced Harold Godwinson to take the oath, the breaking of which led to the Norman conquest of England." The crypt has delightful murals.

We had our picnic in a shady place in the car park of the Battle of Normandy War Museum- no problem parking here! The inscription on the war cemetery memorial is in Latin and reads: “We, once conquered by William, have now set free the Conqueror’s native land. " which is perhaps a little cheesy for so solemn a site.

After lunch we drove southeast to Falaise, the ancestral seat of the aforesaid William. From a respectful distance the castle looks pretty impregnable but was so heavily damaged in the War that it took 50 years to reopen for regular visits. The rebuilt works are emphatically different from the original 1000 year old stuff. What is really good here is the way that the tourist facility makes use of tablet type technology. Each room has capacity to recreate on the tablet scene how would have it looked at the height of the Ducal early medieval period with rich colour and furnishings. The tablet then allows a click while pointing at particular objects to get an explanation of their use. On one floor the tablet explains types of medieval siege engines and a short video clip ( animated cartoon) of them working. We could become qualified catapult technicians by studying here. I would specialise in the trebuchet (two different examples were on show), as this engine has now become the name of my favourite computer type font.

Market and Battlefield

On Tuesday we went to the market in Sourdeval, a small neighbouring town. The market was all sorts, including live animals, clothes and bric a brac. For food it was smaller than the farmer's markets in Melbourne, but since we are excellently supplied with vegetables and fruit, not mention homemade jam, from our hosts' garden we only needed some sausages- as it was late morning the stall holder insisted on giving us free extras- and some rainbow trout. A baguette from the boulangerie set us up for return home to deposit the perishables.

We then set out again for another nearby town, Mortain, scene of one of the pitched battles in a major German counter attack in August 1944 focused on Avranches, (Operation Lüttich) when the town was almost completely destroyed after six days of air and artillery bombardment. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_L%C3%BCttich
A substantial hill overlooking the town dubbed Hill 314 was occupied by a single USA battalion that became isolated and lost two thirds of regiment. There is thus a major war memorial own the hill for the "lost battalion" which was eventually rescued without conceding its territory.
We had a picnic lunch on the hill, from which Le Mont St Michel can be seen on the horizon 43km away, and then explored the local "Grande Cascades".

A visit to another pretty market town, Villedieu les Poeles, renowned for its copper work, completed the day's touring. See
http://www.ot-villedieu.fr/visit-villedieu-les-poeles.htm

Fougères

The drive to Fougères just inside the old border of Bretagne takes a little over one hour from our house. There is a busy general town, but we made the trip to explore the medieval quarter. The old centre was fortified from the 9th century, and is the largest example of a medieval fortress in Europe.
The fortress was disputed and held by the independent Duchy of Bretagne, the English, the French, and rival claimants to the duchy. It is worth cribbing a potted history:
"The history of Fougères is very much based around its château, around which the town sprang up in the Early Middle Ages. Originally a wooden fortress, the castle was rebuilt in stone after it was destroyed by Henry II of England in 1166 and is perfect example of a traditional medieval stronghold. Built on a rocky islet that is sheltered by hills, surrounded by marshes, and on a bend of the river Nançon, the castle made use of its great defensive position. The 4 towers provide great views and today contain a circuit that takes you back to experience the great historical events of the medieval period including the storming of Fougères; the legend of the fairy, Muséline, whom the château's most impressive tower is named after; and the Battle of Saint-Aubin-du-Cormier. The lower town has a wonderful medieval district, especially around the Place de Marchix where you can find several medieval half-timber houses. With many cattle in the surrounding area, tanners, cloth makers and dyers worked their trade in Fougères leading into the shoe industry that made the town's fortune in the Industrial era."
Source: http://www.brittany-ferries.co.uk/guides/france/brittany/fougeres
We found the French son et lumière good, and rendered better by our English audio guide. We spent nearly three hours walking the guided tour. A satisfying quick insight to the story medieval Western France.
We also looked at and listened to Bretagne's oldest belfry, and stepped into the towns two medieval churches, St Leonard, and St Sulpice, admired the quadruple water mill, and the public gardens commended by both Balzac and Hugo.
À propos the last note, both Wendy and I have read Balzac's novel "The Chouans" that is set in the vicinity of Fougères, and Balzac was led to write on staying in town ( see wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Chouans)

A house in Basse Normandie

We found a house to rent in inland Normandy off the beaten track in a commune called Le Gué Rochoux. It is very close to a forest and the surroundings are rural : dairy (we buy milk warm from the cow), maize, and other crops. Not much sign of apple orchards. We are surrounded by farms. As outsiders we get the impression that our hosts, who are English, have not only become part of the community but seem to be friends with everyone and certainly have been very generous and helpful to us, even inquiring of a Paris contact about transport connections for our Paris sightseeing.

The house sleeps about 10 people, has 3 bathrooms, living/ dining room and separate kitchen and is very comfortable. Our hosts also live in a separate house on the property, where they have sheep and a very impressive vegetable garden from which they have invited us to help ourselves. There is placard in the kitchen that says "may all who enter this house as Guests leave our home as Friends." That explains much about our experience for this week.

Fosse d'Arthur and Lonlay Abbaye

Sunday morning we have explored the alternate legend of the death of King Arthur. It seems that both Arthur and Guinevere retired to this locality , but Merlin required that they live on opposite sides of a stream. Arthur flouted this restriction and got sucked into a whirlpool. Guinevere tried to save him but she drowned too. Their resting place is this rocky gorge.

We clamboured up a path leading to the top of the escapement not altogether inaptly called Rue de Calvaire. Other tourists were making a more direct ascent.

Picnic lunch of baguette, and cider apples from our farm house, was taken at the Fosse Arthur lake: we scrutinized the waters for a hand holding a sword, and indeed the waters did part, but it may have been a carp. Hot chocolate on the terrace at the Fosse restaurant while contemplating fish in the babbling brook readied us for transition to compleat angling that even Walton might approve.

A more substantial monument nearby is the Abbey of Lonlay, established in 1020 by one of West France's most well to do families, substantially damaged by fire in 1530 and 1560 and never fully restored.

Late in the afternoon our host Ken took us to his private lake, and with expert tuition and beginner's luck Tony landed a 2kg+ carp. It was restored to its friends and relations, but as compensation for lack of a trout dinner, Charlotte, his wife, encouraged Wendy in the kitchen garden and our supper includes a parsnip, carrot and beans lately thriving in natural situ.

Granville again

On Friday afternoon we decided to explore the old town of Granville on the heights in more detail. We approached the vicinity by way of the port, and were struck again by the sight of a harbour on one side of a sea wall, while at the same level on the other side the small craft were all marooned on mudflat.
The cherished parish church of Notre Dame is undergoing extended restoration and so is not photogenic.
I was fascinated by the statue erected in honour of Pleville de Pelley, a one legged corsair hero who fought in the American War of Independence and was involved in other courageous exploits too numerous to mention in this post, but covered in another blog with a better photo than mine. Do have a look: http://vivinfrance.wordpress.com/2011/11/16/questions-answered-a-corsair-is-not-a-pirate/
In the evening we ate at Restaurant du Port, a beautiful meal with fish straight off the boat.