The drive to Fougères just inside the old border of Bretagne takes a little over one hour from our house. There is a busy general town, but we made the trip to explore the medieval quarter. The old centre was fortified from the 9th century, and is the largest example of a medieval fortress in Europe.
The fortress was disputed and held by the independent Duchy of Bretagne, the English, the French, and rival claimants to the duchy. It is worth cribbing a potted history:
"The history of Fougères is very much based around its château, around which the town sprang up in the Early Middle Ages. Originally a wooden fortress, the castle was rebuilt in stone after it was destroyed by Henry II of England in 1166 and is perfect example of a traditional medieval stronghold. Built on a rocky islet that is sheltered by hills, surrounded by marshes, and on a bend of the river Nançon, the castle made use of its great defensive position. The 4 towers provide great views and today contain a circuit that takes you back to experience the great historical events of the medieval period including the storming of Fougères; the legend of the fairy, Muséline, whom the château's most impressive tower is named after; and the Battle of Saint-Aubin-du-Cormier. The lower town has a wonderful medieval district, especially around the Place de Marchix where you can find several medieval half-timber houses. With many cattle in the surrounding area, tanners, cloth makers and dyers worked their trade in Fougères leading into the shoe industry that made the town's fortune in the Industrial era."
Source: http://www.brittany-ferries.co.uk/guides/france/brittany/fougeres
We found the French son et lumière good, and rendered better by our English audio guide. We spent nearly three hours walking the guided tour. A satisfying quick insight to the story medieval Western France.
We also looked at and listened to Bretagne's oldest belfry, and stepped into the towns two medieval churches, St Leonard, and St Sulpice, admired the quadruple water mill, and the public gardens commended by both Balzac and Hugo.
À propos the last note, both Wendy and I have read Balzac's novel "The Chouans" that is set in the vicinity of Fougères, and Balzac was led to write on staying in town ( see wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Chouans)
The fortress was disputed and held by the independent Duchy of Bretagne, the English, the French, and rival claimants to the duchy. It is worth cribbing a potted history:
"The history of Fougères is very much based around its château, around which the town sprang up in the Early Middle Ages. Originally a wooden fortress, the castle was rebuilt in stone after it was destroyed by Henry II of England in 1166 and is perfect example of a traditional medieval stronghold. Built on a rocky islet that is sheltered by hills, surrounded by marshes, and on a bend of the river Nançon, the castle made use of its great defensive position. The 4 towers provide great views and today contain a circuit that takes you back to experience the great historical events of the medieval period including the storming of Fougères; the legend of the fairy, Muséline, whom the château's most impressive tower is named after; and the Battle of Saint-Aubin-du-Cormier. The lower town has a wonderful medieval district, especially around the Place de Marchix where you can find several medieval half-timber houses. With many cattle in the surrounding area, tanners, cloth makers and dyers worked their trade in Fougères leading into the shoe industry that made the town's fortune in the Industrial era."
Source: http://www.brittany-ferries.co.uk/guides/france/brittany/fougeres
We found the French son et lumière good, and rendered better by our English audio guide. We spent nearly three hours walking the guided tour. A satisfying quick insight to the story medieval Western France.
We also looked at and listened to Bretagne's oldest belfry, and stepped into the towns two medieval churches, St Leonard, and St Sulpice, admired the quadruple water mill, and the public gardens commended by both Balzac and Hugo.
À propos the last note, both Wendy and I have read Balzac's novel "The Chouans" that is set in the vicinity of Fougères, and Balzac was led to write on staying in town ( see wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Chouans)
We are enjoying your blog very much :-)
ReplyDeleteBonnie, Bev & Jenny xxx