Saturday, 28 September 2013

Last day in Basse Normandie

We had ambitions to see Honfleur's harbour and its Musées Eric Satie and Boudin, and at least view the Pont de Normandie across the mouth of the Seine, but as the day came it was apparent that two and a half hour's driving each way made these aims a bridge too far.
After coffee with buyers of a ram from the farm we went instead to neighbouring Domfront to stroll through the medieval streets (noting one half - timbered house dated 1515) and the ruins of the easternmost castle of Henry II of England and Eleanor. (Actually it was built by one of William thre conqueror's sons).Eleanor's daughter Eleanor (later queen of Spain) was baptised there in 1161, so we could give their name the French spelling on site: Alienor. The castle was also the site of the final attempt to reconcile Henry and Archbishop Thomas a'Becket in 1169.
The church is of interest in that being just reopened on 1 September 2013 after a closure of seven years its form is neo Byzantine and its material concrete, chosen for cheapness and lightness. The image of Christ Pantocreator is particularly striking in recalling the art of the Eastern church, and summoning natural light from the dome.
We travelled a further 20 km to Bagnoles de l'Orne, an obvious ritzy spa town with plenty of places for the wealthy to be frivolous, but having come, we saw, and did not need to conquer so moved back to Mortain to enjoy a late "sandwich".
In the evening we shared a barbecue with our always obliging hosts who have in every way gone the second mile to assure the pleasure of our stay .

1 comment:

  1. Errrr... trust you were merely onlookers to the sale of ram transaction?
    We too have noticed art reminiscent of the Eastern church, for example at St Augustin (close to where we're staying).

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