Thursday, 26 September 2013

Bayeux and Falaise

On Wednesday we set out early for our journey to Bayeux, being warned that arrival after the coaches would result in long queues. We arrived at 9.30am to find the tapestry car park already full, so we drove out onto the approach road where we had seen marked spaces: second touring error! The spaces were marked in blue, and on our return a bluey was awaiting us- these spaces require a parking disc showing the time to be displayed on the dashboard, as we subsequently learned. The fine is €17, bearable but paying is complex- involving either a cheque or contravention stamps to be posted- once again our hosts are assisting.
The set-up to view the tapestry is excellent with a full English commentary, and copious explanations of theories of provenance, stitches methodology, demonstrations of the reverse side, and general history of what the tapestry, actually an embroidery, illustrates.

The cathedral is a magnificent edifice from the outside. The background info says "The site is an ancient one and was once occupied by Roman sanctuaries. The present cathedral was consecrated on 14 July 1077 in the presence of William, Duke of Normandy and King of England. It was here that William forced Harold Godwinson to take the oath, the breaking of which led to the Norman conquest of England." The crypt has delightful murals.

We had our picnic in a shady place in the car park of the Battle of Normandy War Museum- no problem parking here! The inscription on the war cemetery memorial is in Latin and reads: “We, once conquered by William, have now set free the Conqueror’s native land. " which is perhaps a little cheesy for so solemn a site.

After lunch we drove southeast to Falaise, the ancestral seat of the aforesaid William. From a respectful distance the castle looks pretty impregnable but was so heavily damaged in the War that it took 50 years to reopen for regular visits. The rebuilt works are emphatically different from the original 1000 year old stuff. What is really good here is the way that the tourist facility makes use of tablet type technology. Each room has capacity to recreate on the tablet scene how would have it looked at the height of the Ducal early medieval period with rich colour and furnishings. The tablet then allows a click while pointing at particular objects to get an explanation of their use. On one floor the tablet explains types of medieval siege engines and a short video clip ( animated cartoon) of them working. We could become qualified catapult technicians by studying here. I would specialise in the trebuchet (two different examples were on show), as this engine has now become the name of my favourite computer type font.

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